One of the first tasks European immigrants undertook when settling in North America was planting apple trees to make cider. During colonial times, what we now call hard cider—fermented apple beverage containing alcohol—was served with virtually every meal.
Prohibition brought cider production to an abrupt halt, and the industry’s recovery has been slow and challenging. In recent years, however, cider has enjoyed a strong revival. Early innovators like Farnum Hill Ciders have been joined by newer producers such as Argus Ciders and Tandem Ciders, all receiving growing praise from consumers and the press.
Even established winemakers have begun experimenting with hard cider. Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard, for example, set out in 2010 to produce a sparkling hard cider. Rather than rely solely on apples, Grahm blended pears and quince into the recipe to add complexity.
The first vintage presented several obstacles. Finding locally grown fruit suitable for cider was a challenge, and pressing the softer pears caused difficulties. Bartlett pears contributed desirable musky aromatics but were too soft to press cleanly—their pulpy mash tended to clog press screens. Grahm’s solution was to co-press Bartletts with firmer apples and quince, but matching ripening times proved tricky. As he put it, the process felt like assembling a jigsaw puzzle with a crowbar.
Complications intensified during the secondary fermentation when some bottles exploded, forcing the team to decant and re-bottle a portion of the production. That mistake cost roughly half of the initial run. Despite these setbacks, the effort paid off: the 2010 Querry became a delightful and addictive sparkling cider. By all accounts the 2011 vintage progressed more smoothly, with no exploding bottles.
Bonny Doon Vineyard, ¿Querry? hard sparkling cider
Producer: Bonny Doon Vineyard
Region: California
Ingredients: 51% apples, 40% pears, 9% quince
Alcohol: 7%
Price: $16
Serving: Chilled
Pouring Querry into Champagne flutes calls for a little patience unless you prefer the foam to rise and spill. After the lively effervescence subsides, aromas of freshly cut autumn fruit come forward.
On the palate, fine but lively bubbles enliven the mouth. Bone-dry with bright acidity, Querry offers flavors of pear skin, zesty Granny Smith apple, tart quince and subtle herbal and citrus notes. Grahm compares it to a Riesling Kabinett trocken—lighter and more ephemeral, but similarly refreshing.
The cider’s acidity makes the mouth water and lets the flavors linger, prompting another sip before the previous one finishes.
Food pairings recommended by Bonny Doon Vineyard include charcuterie, Asian dishes, seafood and poultry, ranging from humble meat pie to elegant lobster. Querry also pairs exceptionally well with finger foods—potato latkes with apple confit and crispy sage, for example—where the cider’s apple-pear-quince profile complements the confit and its acidity cuts through the richness of the latkes. The result is harmonious and quite moreish.